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UK village restaurant voted best in world
The Fat Duck, the
pioneering British restaurant that introduced the world to
delicacies such as sardine on toast sorbet and bacon and egg ice
cream, has been declared the world's best place to eat.
Chef Heston Blumenthal's restaurant in the
Berkshire village of Bray topped a list of the world's 50 best
restaurants which was unveiled in London last night.
Fourteen British restaurants were included on
the list chosen by a panel of more than 600 chefs, food critics
and restaurateurs, who considered culinary excellence, service
and the overall dining experience.
The
British selections include Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Tom Aikens,
St John, The Gallery at Sketch, Hakkasan and Nobu. Eleven of
them are in London, two - The Fat Duck and the Waterside Inn -
are in Bray and Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons is
in Oxford.
The strong showing by UK restaurants suggests
the land of bangers and baked beans now boasts more world-class
places to eat than the US and traditional gastronomic hotspots
such as France and Italy.
Mr Blumenthal, whose scientific approach to
creating new flavours has seen him dubbed the guru of "molecular
gastronomy", said the Top 50 was a true reflection of an
"incredibly exciting" UK restaurant scene.
"One of the key factors is the diversity of
restaurants and styles of cooking on offer," he said. "And the
great thing about this list is that it allows any restaurant,
not just the £200-a-head gastronomic experiences, to pack an
equal punch."
Mr Blumenthal, who writes for the Guardian,
said his bizarre-sounding dishes such as snail porridge, were
part of The Fat Duck's bid to create food that was both
delicious and fun.
"It's a complete package of enjoyment I'm
after," he said. "If I've discovered something new and get a
sense of excitement about it, I want to pass it on to the
customer in the dining room. It's like when you see an
incredible view or drink a great bottle of wine - the experience
is heightened if you share it with someone else."
Ella Johnston, the editor of Restaurant
magazine which compiled the list, said the dynamic British
restaurant scene was being driven by the public's growing
enthusiasm for good food.
"British chefs used to just go abroad to the
US and France," she said. "Now, with people becoming more
adventurous eaters and with more money in London and the
surrounding areas, they know they will have an audience for
great food."
The Fat Duck's success pushed last year's top
restaurant, The French Laundry in California, into third
position behind Spain's legendary El Bulli. Only six New York
restaurants made the Top 50 including Thomas Keller's Per Se in
seventh place and Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Jean Georges in
ninth.
The strong showing by British restaurants was
endorsed by John Willoughby, the executive editor of New
York-based Gourmet magazine. "Our position is that London is the
best city in the world to eat in right now," he said. "Everyone
here is amazed at the quality and the breadth of the
restaurants."
And Mr Willoughby said he "wouldn't disagree"
with the choice of The Fat Duck as the world's best restaurant.
"It might just be the most fun restaurant I
have ever eaten in," he said. "Everything was inventive and more
important than that it tasted wonderful."
Not everyone agrees the list is a fair
reflection of the world's restaurant scene, however.
Jay Rayner, The Observer's food critic, was
deeply sceptical. "By no stretch of the imagination are 14 of
the best restaurants in the world in the UK," he said. "There
are some really good things going on in the UK and I would
happily put The Fat Duck at No 1 if someone asked where the most
exciting place to eat in UK was. But the list is a collection of
50 good restaurants, some of which deserve to be there, some of
which don't."
Mr Rayner said The Ivy - ranked No 44 on the
list - was a "great brasserie", but not one of the best
restaurants in the world. And he described Hakkasan - ranked at
No 30 - as "a very good" Chinese restaurant. "But are we really
saying the best Chinese restaurant in the entire world is in
London right now?"
Mr Rayner pointed out that London has only
one Michelin three-star restaurant and three two-star. Paris has
more than half a dozen three-star restaurants and about 20
two-star establishments.
Chef Angela Hartnett, whose London restaurant
Angela Hartnett at The Connaught was ranked No 27 on the list
was more supportive.
"There are a lot more three-star restaurants
in France, but I think we can match anyone," she said. "I often
eat in New York and I think I eat much better here. The variety
is amazing and the quality as well."
Ms Hartnett said the downside to London's
restaurant scene was the high prices.
"New York is a hell of a lot cheaper, but the
prices [in London] make customers more demanding - they expect
the best," she said.
Ms Johnston agreed that the list could be
seen as "Anglocentric", but she said it was not biased because
it was chosen by an international panel that included prominent
figures such as Keller and the Chinese chef Ken Hom.
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